Thursday, April 10, 2025

Places I'm Visiting: Japan 2025 – Karuizawa

I left Tokyo yesterday and headed for Karuizawa, a town about which I've heard for years, but never visited. The place is famous as a summering place for the wealthy fleeing from the summer heat in Tokyo. In the winter, it's a ski resort. The place reminded me a bit of Lake Tahoe. Visible from anywhere in the town is Mt. Asama, one of Japan's more active volcanos. I was told it occasionally spews a little smoke, but it has been quiet for a few years. At this time of year, it's still capped with snow. In Tokyo, I strolled through a corner of Ueno Koen before my train left. The cherry blossoms were at their peak. Before leaving for Karuizawa, I also made a quick stop at the new National Art Center. The show on at the moment wasn't of much interest to me, but the building is rather striking.  

I chose Karuizawa because there's a bird sanctuary near the station (a $3 bus ride away). I spent a couple of hours walking in Yacho no Mori (The Wild Bird Forest), a forested area of mostly deciduous trees with a couple of ponds and intersected by fast-moving streams. There wasn't a lot of bird activity, but I managed to see Meadow Buntings, Coal Tits, Willow Tits, Long-tailed Tits, Spot-billed Ducks and Mallards, and a Grey Wagtail. The Willow Tit and Grey Wagtail are new to me.

After hiking, I returned to the town and had an early dinner. I was surprised at how early everything shuts down. I got the last bus back to the station at around 6:30. At a nearby gallery I enjoyed seeing prints by an artist I was previously unaware of, Kuroki Shu. In Kanazawa, I plan to do some more birding before heading for the Fukui area in the hope of seeing some traditional papermaking.

My hotel in Karuizawa turned out to be an Hawaii-themed hostel. I had made the booking in a hurry and chose it simply because the room in the photo looked spacious. I hadn't noticed the theme. The owners simply like Hawaii, it seems. The walls were covered with photos of Hawaii and Hawaiian textiles. Hawaiian music was playing in the hallways. The dinner menu for the next evening was Hawaii-influenced. Breakfast in the morning featured rather excellent French toast. I was the only guest. Early April appears to be the off season in Karuizawa. 

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