Thursday, April 3, 2025

Places I'm Visiting: Tokyo 2025

 Back in Tokyo for the first time in about a year, I did little on my first day beyond meeting up with my wife for a stroll up Kagurazaka to La Gratitude, a petite French restaurant run by a friend and her husband, where we had a perfect meal washed down with a tasty bottle of Grenache from the south of France. The label made a point of noting that it was produced without added sulfites. I can't say I noticed a difference because of that, but the wine was good – an exemplary expression of the grape. The more I drink Grenache wines the more I realize that the flavors I enjoy in Southern Rhône wines are as much a function of the grape as they are of the terroir. 

On day two, I got some business out of the way, talking to prospective clients as I go back to being a freelance translator, retiring from full-time work as an in-house translator for a major European bank. We spent the morning in Shin Okubo, in the area around the station, which is known for its sweets shops, Southeast Asian restaurants (including many offering Halal foods for muslim customers from countries such as Bangladesh, Indonesia, Nepal, and India) and also for "love hotels" – hotels with rooms for discreet meetings available by the hour. We found a satisfying lunch at a popular Korean restaurant called Tejeonde that sported a confusing menu – a perfect example of the Japanese tendency to cram as much text and as many pictures as possible into the available space. Say what you will about the Japanese aesthetic sense, but graphic design is not a strength here. The food was good if not the presentation of the choices. 

Along the way, I spotted a vending machine that sells nothing but sweet crepes. There's virtually nothing you can't find in a vending machine in Japan. Later, walking around Shinjuku, we tunneled through Omoide Yokocho, a narrow alley lined with tiny shops and restaurants. 

In the evening, we joined some old friends for a ride up and down the Sumida River on a yakatabune (a long, low, covered boat that  serves food and drink on river excursions, a tradition that goes back hundreds of years). The cherry blossoms visible along the river are near full bloom. Rain today and yesterday has held them back, but clear, warm weather tomorrow is expected to bring out a flush of new flowers. I'm looking forward to seeing the flowers tomorrow and to visiting some of the record stores in Shinjuku. 

The boat departed from Shinagawa. Shinagawa is an area of the city I didn't frequent when I lived in Tokyo, but it was never a very fashionable district and it always gave the impression of having been left behind, but since I last was there it has been completely redeveloped – like so much of Tokyo. Today, there's hardly an old building to be seen.



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