On the Road: (Pacific Northwest, 2011) Home Again

I'm home again today, having stayed last night in Reno--at the same hotel I used on the way out, again for $27 a night. I stayed the previous night in Eugene, Oregon. Most of the past two days was spent driving through pretty countryside--lush in southern Oregon, gradually drier and more rocky as I moved into California and Nevada. Along the way I stopped at the Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge, where I took the driving tour of the wetlands there. I got a new life bird, the Redhead, a duck that's not that uncommon, but one I'd never managed to see before. There were hundreds of Eared Grebes (photo), in the breeding plumage we rarely see at home in Sonoma County. Otherwise, it was mostly Coots, Scaup, and White Pelicans--and blue dragonflies, whole clouds of them clinging to the vegetation by the water. Along the way, stopped at a stoplight, I found myself behind a pair of bikers. Check out their license plates (hers says BW8N4ME, his says IBW8N4U).

On the Road: (Pacific Northwest, 2011) Vancouver, WA

Starting out this morning I had intended to head south from Portland, having arrived back there late at night from Victoria, BC, but I got on the highway going north instead of south and found myself in Vancouver--Vancouver, Washington, that is, not back in Canada--in other words, just north of Portland. In finding my way back to the highway I kept seeing signs pointing to Fort Vancouver and references to the Hudson's Bay Company. Intrigued, I decided to follow them. Last time I posted here I remarked that the downside to a largely unplanned road trip like this is that you sometimes miss interesting opportunities because of timing. The flip side is that you sometimes stumble upon things worth seeing.

Fort Vancouver was established by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1825 and eventually grew to a community of about 800 inhabitants at its peak in the mid-1840s. This was the Bay Company's administrative headquarters for all of the northwest, from the Pacific Ocean to the Rockies in the east and San Francisco to the south. It was the center of profitable trapping, trading, and agricultural operations. It appears to have been largely self-sufficient, with its own carpenters, gunsmiths, smithy, and trading post, as well as housing and extensive gardens and orchards, some of which have been recreated. An interesting way to start a day that was otherwise spent heading south as far as Eugene. I took Highway 99, through wine country and farmland, rather than I-5, as the scenery is so much better along the smaller road. Tired from yesterday's long drive, I plan to stay in Eugene tonight and make one more stop before arriving home, probably in Reno because of the cheap casino-town hotels. There's also a good wine bar there I discovered on the way north.

On the Road: (Pacific Northwest, 2011) Vancouver, Victoria

I've been on the move the past couple of days. The weather hasn't been the best--it rained in Vancouver, where I did little more than walk around the Yaletown and Gas Town neighborhoods. In Gas Town, I happened to walk by a steam-powered chiming clock that was just indicating the hour; it appears to be famous. The highlight, however, was an all too-short visit to Stanley Park, which is lush and beautiful, much like Golden Gate Park, although it seems considerably larger and it has some genuinely forested areas. I should have planned to spend more time there, but that's the downside to spontaneous travel--sometimes you miss opportunities. During my brief visit I did a little casual bird watching at the Lion's Gate Bridge overlook, where I saw Red-breasted Sapsuckers, Black-capped Chickadees, White-crowned Sparrows, Downy Woodpeckers, a beautifully bright Yellow Warbler, and what I think was a Black-throated Grey Warbler. The Downy Woodpeckers here are greyer than ours, their caps more orange.

I crossed over to Vancouver Island in the afternoon of the 18th and drove down from the port near Sidney and out to Sooke, to the West. I found a quirky, inexpensive B&B in an old (1870) house with character and a character for a proprietress. She sat me down in the kitchen and wouldn't dismiss me until all the formalities were thoroughly taken care of. I had hoped to do some bird watching in the area, but nowhere recommended turned out to have anything of special interest. I missed seeing the larks known to live in the area that are now very restricted in range, although I checked for them at the little cemetery by the airport where they are said to hang out. I stopped at a good winery, however, on the way down from the ferry port, Church and State, where the very friendly and helpful Lyndell poured the entire line for me to taste (I asked about the somewhat odd name--"it's all about balance," she said with a smile). They make an excellent Pinot Gris with real character from Vancouver Island fruit and some good wines from Okanagan Valley fruit, notably a good 2008 Chardonnay and a 2006 Meritage. Awinery worth looking out for.

When two years ago I made a road trip like this one (heading east across the country, going as far as Ohio and back) the food along the route was generally appalling. In contrast, I've had good luck with food on this trip. Interesting Read Island Oysters at Blue Water Bistro in Vancouver and dinner last night at the Sooke Harbour House (an inn and a restaurant; 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., (250) 642-3421). The dining room at the Harbour House has a good view over the ocean with forested islands as a backdrop. I wached the fog engulf them as I ate. The staff were notably professional, attentive, and enthusiastic about the food and the wine. The wine list is fabulous. I had a very tasty white blend called Blind Trust (Pinot Gris, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Blanc) from Laughing Stock Vineyards, and tasted several other wines; talking about wine with the waitress and sommelier, they kept bringing me tastes. I was particularly impressed by an island rosé of Pinot Noir. Clearly some very good wine is being made here. The weather seems to be difficult, though. Lyndell at Church and State said they didn't even pick the fruit last year because the summer was so cool, and the grapes appear to be well behind schedule this year, too. On my way out, I took a good look at the vines and was startled to see that they were just flowering....

I had an excellent salad made from local greens, local herbs, and edible flowers. It tasted like my garden. I followed that with mussels, clams, and gooseneck barnacles in broth, garnished with shungiku, and had a salmon main dish with an array of garnishes (including turnips, pesto, and shrimp-stuffed crayfish) that kept offering surprises. Excellent. I was tempted to stay another night, just to enjoy the restaurant again. Today, I spent a little time checking out spots that were recommended for birding near the Inner Harbor at Victoria, but there was nothing to see. All the gulls appear to be Glaucous Gulls and Glaucous-winged Gulls. I write this as I wait to board the ferry bound for Port Angeles, north of Seattle. I plan to make a quick move south, making it to the Portland area again tonight, if I can, but I suspect I'll peter out early.

On the Road (Pacific Northwest 2011) Bend to Portland, Oregon (July 14)

 

Got a late start this morning. I was tired. I slept late. Eventually, I started my day in Bend with a walk around some of the shops in the old downtown area. I wandered into one that specializes in odd things from Japan--everything from Pokémon and Hello Kitty goods to books on the game of Go. The woman working there told me the old downtown was down and out 15 years ago, when she moved into the area, but it prospers now, mostly in restored turn-of-the-century (early 1900s) brick buildings. I then headed over to Pilot Butte, a cinder cone created by extinct volcanic activity virtually in the middle of the town. It gives a panoramic view of Bend and the landscape around it--more cinder cones at varying distances, snow-covered volcanic peaks in the far distance, some of the latter in the classic cone shape, others eroded by glaciation. There's a road to the summit, but also a walking trail. I strolled a bit, with my binoculars, of course. I saw a nice Ash-throated Flycatcher and some bright yellow clumps of wildflowers that I didn't recognize. The ground was littered with red pumice-like stones, the cinders. They seemed natural here, but I was put in mind of annoying "lava rock" litter on suburban sidewalks where the landscaping is unruly.

Next I set out to find Shevlin Park, a large wooded park north of Bend with a fast stream through it that came recommended for birding. It was very badly signposted. I was about to give up on finding it when I accidentally came across it on my GPS (it wasn't there the first time I looked). I took an hour's walk through pine woods and scrub and then along the river on my way back. It turned out to be an excellent spot. Got a new life bird--Green-tailed Towhee. In places the trees were alive with chickadees--both Black-capped Chickadee and Mountain Chickadee, I believe, and nuthatches. Got a good close-up look at a Hairy Woodpecker. The Northwest subspecies is distinctly buff-colored where ours are white. I saw a Lewis's Woodpecker and a wren and a flycatcher I'm still trying to figure out. More life birds?

Headed north from Shevlin Park out of Bend through Redmond and Warm Springs and then northwest into the Portland area. Not far beyond Bend I drove by a sign that referred to Peter Skene Ogden (the man Ogden, Utah is named after) and a scenic viewpoint, so I turned around to take a look. Beyond a large parking lot surrounded by signs with warnings about attending to children at all times, about keeping dogs on leashes (one said "Many dogs have died here") was a low stone wall. You don't see the steep (300-foot) drop-off just beyond the wall until you're right on top of it. The vista point gives access to stunning views into a gorge cut by the Crooked River and of the three bridges that span the gorge. One is an old railway truss bridge, one is a road bridge, built in 1927 (and, according to one of a number of informative signs, the highest, single-span road bridge in the US when it was new), the third is a modern road bridge (opened in 2000) built to replace the bridge of 1927, which is closed to traffic, but open to pedestrians. The view is pretty spectacular. I'm glad I stopped and went back. Turkey Vultures, Violet-green Swallows, and Swifts were flying in the gorge.

The rest of the day was spent driving through scenery that was pretty, but not up to the level of yesterday. Dinner tonight at Caffe Mingo (503 226-4646, serving until 10:00PM weekdays, 11:00PM weekends), in northwest Portland (807 NW 21st St., the "Alphabet District"), where I write this. Not too expensive, excellent food. Citrus-marinated olives (some of these are Castelvetrano olives, some taste like they've been marinated in hazelnut oil); artichokes crusted with garlic; braised chicken and mushroom risotto; washed down with a glass of Garofoli Verdicchio. Friendly, neighborhood atmosphere, a number of communal tables, an excellent wine list. About half the customers appear to be regulars--always a good sign--with the waiters and waitresses calling customers by name. There is no Wi-Fi connection here, but the connection is good from the restaurant next door, (Serrato, which also looks interesting). Recommended. Now, it's time to look for a place to sleep.... I may stop here again on my way back--if that works out.