Back home again after a month in Japan, I'm still working through the jet lag, but a busy schedule upon my return has helped to get me back in synch with the sun. As my visit this time was mostly to see my father-in-law before his passing, I haven't posted the extended notes I usually do as a way of remembering places visited and details noted. Most of the trip was spent on the island of Oshima, with family, but, after the funeral, we took a little time for a short trip. Just wanting to get away, we made no real plans before heading out, but I had wanted to to see Izumo Taisha, one of Japan's most important Shinto Shrines, so we headed off to Shimane Prefecture, on the Sea of Japan side of Japan's main island of Honshu.
Along the way, we stopped at the Adachi Museum of Art. Although the main collection was not of much interest, a recently added wing devoted to the ceramic work of Kitaōji Rosanjin was worth the time, and the gardens around the museum are famous. Some consider them to be Japan's most beautiful. I'm not sure I agree. While they are very pretty, I thought them a little too tidy, a little too perfectly manicured. Still, I enjoyed the view.
We visited Shimane Winery, which turned out to be mostly a tourist destination. I noticed a lot of vineyards in the area. Because of the frequent rains in Japan, grapes here are almost entirely grown in greenhouses rather than outdoors.
We took a quick look at Matsue Castle, which is noteworthy because it is one of the few medieval castles in Japan that retains its original keep. Most castles in the country have been extensively restored, although some more than others. Quite a number have been completely rebuilt in modern times on the site of their ruins.
We found a Lafcadio Hearn Museum in Matsue and, next door, a house that Hearn once lived in. I knew of Hearn, having often heard the name, and long ago I read his best-known book, Kwaidan, a collection of retold Japanese ghost stories, but I knew little about the man. The museum was surprisingly informative and the English labels on the exhibits were complete and written in good English, which is unusual. Often English labeling in Japanese museums is abbreviated and just as often it suffers from poor, sometimes incomprehensible, translation.
I hadn't known that Hearn had worked as a journalist in Cincinnati or that he had lived in Greece, Ireland, and England and worked briefly in Tahiti, apparently getting to know Gauguin there. I hadn't known that Hearn had lived in New Orleans and that he even wrote a creole cookbook. He lived in various places in Japan besides Matsue, but it was there that raised his family with his Japanese wife, Settsu, who is currently the subject of an NHK serial drama. If you happen to find yourself in Shimane and have any interest in literature, the Hearn Museum is well worth the price of admission.
Other things I learned included the fact that the area around Matsue was once an important cotton producing area and that the manga creator Mizuki Shigeru was from Sakaiminato, a nearby town just over the border into Tottori Prefecture. Cotton production in the area began in the early 1700s, although later there appears to have been a shift toward silk production. There is a small section of the town of Hirata, between Matsue and Izumo Tashia, with buildings that date back to the cotton days, some of them restored and repurposed. On a stroll through the area, I noticed many shops with potted cotton plants out front, a nod to the local history. In Sakaiminato there is a street several blocks long dedicated to Mizuki lined with bronze sculptures of his yokai creations and some of the streetlights there project images of the monsters on the street.
I spent my last three days in Japan in Tokyo, which afforded the opportunity to catch up with some old friends and colleagues and to enjoy a couple of good meals. On the plane home, I had the good fortune of being seated beside a young couple with interests that aligned with my own, which led to an extended conversation – always a welcome distraction on a long flight.