Thursday, May 9, 2013
Medium to pale gold. Interesting nose. Immediately put me in mind of pine resin or turpentine--which is not quite the condemnation it might seem. Suggestive of a light retsina. I also got pear scents and a distinct aroma of spearmint. None of these are scents I've ever associated with the Torrontés grape. That and the slightly oxidized, sherry-like scent are the give-aways that this wine is probably over the hill. Still, not entirely unpleasant. On the palate the wine is resiny but with good acidity and it has a little grip on the mid-palate. The sherry-like character is present here, but not excessive. At 13.5% alcohol, the wine seems a little hot, and there is something about it that put me in mind of a Poire William eaux-de-vie--something brandy-like. The palate, like the nose, makes me wonder what this wine would have tasted like when it was a little fresher.
I can't quite recommend the 2008 Bodega Uno Torrontés, but I can't quite dismiss it either. If you have a taste for mature whites or like dry sherries, you might find this an acceptable, inexpensive summer wine ($3.99 at the Santa Rosa Grocery Outlet), but buy the Solambra first, if you can find it.
(I have no financial connection with any producer or retailer of wine.)